Climbing/Trail Running/Motorbiking in Taiwan, June 2012

Photos are here.

The Planning
They say that the US Military operation to kill Osama Bin Laden involved extremely sophisticated planning, immense coordination, tireless training and impeccable execution. Apparently, in a special operation codenamed “Geronimo”, Blackhawk helicopters carrying a team of highly trained US Navy SEALS were sent in the middle of the night into a walled compound in Pakistan. These SEALS bravely accomplished their mission and disappeared just as swiftly as they arrived.

I know what you’re thinking – what an incredible feat involving such meticulous planning, right? Well, big deal! My grandma could have planned that Osama attack. Talk about organizing a trip to Taiwan that involves motorbiking, mountain biking, hiking, running, chilling and climbing. Now, THAT’S real planning.

The Secret Seven
Seven elite participants were chosen from dozens of applicants to participate in this once-in-a-lifetime adventure trip. The interview process was more extreme than anything the world has ever seen. The potential applicants were put through a pizza eating contest at Pizza Corner on Hollywood Road while I blabbed away for an hour with details on the plan. Those who survived my hour-long lecture AND smiled at the end of it were chosen for the mission.

So, the Secret Seven included Olivia Luk, Dominic Rigby, Hannes Niggli, Martijn Doekes, Jinhwa Kim, Romain Riche and yours truly. And, the plan, well, here you go!

DateDayAgendaRomain and VinceMartijn, Olivia, Dominic, Hannes and JinhwaComments
7th June 2012
Take an evening flight to Taipei and reach by
about 10pm. Go to Taipei Main Station and to the hostel
that's booked for us
1) Call or text Jeremy Warren (the motorbike
dude at +886 926 283 300) to let him know that we're in town
2) Buy a local SIM card and give the number to Olivia
1) Olivia will get a local SIM card as well
to stay in touch with Rihang/Vince
1) We will take the high speed rail  from
Taipei airport to Taipei Main Station

8th June 2012
1) Leave in the morning at about 7am and do a
3.5 hour ride from Taipei to a place called Wuling farm.
2) Spend the day hiking around Wuling farm. There are many
hikes that do not require permits. Spend the night in Wuling
1) Pick up the bikes at 10am from Jeremy.
Ride across Yilang country to Wuling farm (motorbikes can't
take the tunnel). Will have to ride over a hill (<2000m)
high on the motorbike
2) After reaching Wuling farm, do some short hikes and meet
Olivia's group
1) Catch the bus at 7.20am, tickets will be
booked by Richard and the bus will go to Wuling farm. It
takes about 3-3.5 hours to reach Wuling farm
2) Hike around in Wuling farm and meet with Vince and Romain
later on in the day
1) Richard will arrange accommodation at
Wuling farm and get the bus tickets (thanks Richard)
2) They rent sleeping bags in Wuling farm. It's about 5-10
degrees at the top
3) The bus is a private bus and will drop us exactly at the
place we need to be dropped at
9th June 2012
1) Summit Snow mountain and return to Wuling
farm (will be late evening by the time we return). Spend the
night in Wuling farm
1) Might be a long, tiring day but it is
supposed to be VERY beautiful
10th June 2012
1) Get from Wuling farm to Hehuan (3000m) and
takes about 2 hours.
2) Hike around in Hehuan and descend to Taroko. On the way
down to Taroko, run/hike trails
3) Spend the night in Rihang's place and go to the Pacific
Ocean for a BBQ!
1) Ride motorbike to Hehuan
2) Do some hikes in Hehuan with the group (the time taken to
get to Hehuan should be the same -Rihang's car/motorbike-)
3) Ride motorbike down to Taroko and run some trails on the
way down
4) Group will meet in Tiansiang
1) Go with Rihang from Wuling farm to Hehuan
2) Martijn, Dom, Hannes, Jinhwa will ride mountain bikes
from Hehuan to Taroko
3) Olivia will be with Rihang in the van (she can't ride a
bicycle) and she will meet Jinhwa or someone from the group
on the way down to Taroko and hike trails with this person
4) Meet Vince and Romain in Tiansiang (about 25km from
Taroko) at a designated time

1) The ride down CAN BE DANGEROUS. Please
ride slowly
11th June 2012
1) Do an early morning hike/run
2) Get to Taipei (3-3.5 hours)
3) Take evening flight back to Hong Kong
1) After the hike in the morning, ride
motorbike to Taipei
2) Return bikes to Jeremy
3) Meet Olivia's group at a designated point in Taipei
1) Take train to Taipei after morning hike
2) Meet Vince and Romain at a designated point in Taipei

7th June 2012
We landed in Taipei at about 9.30pm and took a seven-seater van to our hostel. Our host was a Taiwanese dude. In his bubbly, ecstatic fashion, he welcomed us to his hostel which seemed largely empty.

Notice board of the hostel – full of great recommendations!

The bunk beds in the dormitory room reminded me of my boarding school back in the day. The “upper berth” guys were quick to reserve their spots. It was about 1am by the time we slept. If you are willing to pay a little more, Expedia offers a range of affordable hotel accommodations. Romain and I were supposed to get our motorbikes from Jeremy of the next day morning at 10am while the rest of the gang was supposed to take a bus to Wuling Farm at 7.20am from Taipei Main Station.

8th June 2012
Trouble in paradise
I turned my phone on at 6am in the morning. The first SMS that popped up on the screen woke me up in a flash.


Ok, so, I screwed up the dates in my latest correspondence with Jeremy, and there went our motorbikes! (Note to self: next time write emails with a calendar by the side). There’s nothing like some startling news to wake you up from your sleep. Romain and I were counting on the motorbikes and now that plan was blown to smithereens. I relayed the distressing message to Romain who was half asleep. His reaction was predictably spontaneous. He woke up from his sleep in a fraction of a second.

My immediate reaction was to scrap the motorbiking idea and join the bus crew to Wuling Farm. But, Romain, like a determined soldier, was adamant to somehow find a way to make the motorbiking work. Hannes provided some much needed moral encouragement. If I remember right, his words were “you can’t give up even if you have to bicycle all the way to Wuling Farm”.

“Anything with two wheels”, he exclaimed. It reminded me of a proverb – “it is easy to be brave from a safe distance”.

So, while the rest of the gang checked out of the hostel, Romain and I had to come up with a Plan B. I was suddenly reminded of the movie Collateral. In the movie, Tom Cruise shoots someone on the second floor of a house and the guy drops down all the way from the second floor onto the roof of a cab. He then says to the cabbie “Okay, look, here’s the deal. Man, you were gonna drive me around tonight, never be the wiser, but El Gordo got in front of a window, did his high dive, we’re into Plan B. Still breathing? Now we gotta make the best of it, improvise, adapt to the environment, Darwin, shit happens, I Ching, whatever man, we gotta roll with it.”

And, “rolling with it”, for us meant asking the drunk guy from the previous night for advice! He was sober in the morning (thankfully) and told us that our only hope to rent motorbikes was to get out of Taipei. Heeding his advice, we took a train all the way to Hualien and walked into the first bike shop we could see.

There’s one solution to all of life’s problems – G O O G L E
A young kid greeted us in the shop and pointed at various scooters. We saw exactly two big scooters and immediately pointed at them. Then the kid signaled to me asking me to go with him to the front of the room. A “GOOGLE TRANSLATE” Firefox tab on his computer was then our primary mode of communication. The bargaining was classic. I asked him to reduce the price to NT$300 per day and he typed away to glory on his side of the Google Translate window. “Locomotive you see its price is relatively high. Outside the day to give you 300”, read the translated version. We eventually agreed on NT$350 per day.

Google is asking me for my “price per night”

I learnt that there’s no word for scooter in Chinese! It’s locomotive!

We smartly signed a Chinese form without understanding a word on it and left our thumb print on it. (Hope I didn’t bequeath all my money to him).

Signing our souls away

We also found two great bikes from our friends Hannes and Dominic. Too bad they decided to take the bus instead.

This bike would have suited Hannes very well – It’s even got “SUNBOY” engraved on it

Great for Dominic – except too powerful perhaps

Then came a fab 160km ride all the way from Hualien to Wuling farm via Taroko. We were riding away to glory along winding mountainous roads, breathing in fresh mountain air and admiring stunning views along the way. I felt like I was in nature’s lap.

Got a ticket to ride

Stunning views

After several hours of riding in nature, we reached Wuling Farm at around 6pm in the evening and were reunited with the rest of the troupe.

The hotel in Wuling Farm looked dandy. It had a great reception area, neat rooms but a rather mediocre dinner buffet. Well, it wasn’t that bad. Hannes, a stickler for tasty Swiss food, definitely enjoyed it very much. Especially the fine Swiss cheese and Swiss Muesli.

The hotel reception area

The dinner buffet


9th June 2012

Early to bed, early to rise keeps hikers healthy, wealthy and sleepy
Jinhwa is full of energy. Too much energy. Her plan called for us getting up at 2am in the morning and leaving our rooms by 2.30am in order to catch the sunrise from a hut near the summit. There was only one catch. The start of the trail was well over 10kms away from our hotel in Wuling Farm. Walking on a concrete road that went up 500m in elevation at 2.30am in the morning didn’t sound very appealing. We needed a Plan B. Our loyal scooters came to the rescue. Romain and I “scootered” our passengers all the way from our hotel to the start of the trail on two trips. My scooter sputtered on full throttle and refused to climb up the last part of the steep road with Dominic riding pillion with me. I hinted to him that he had to lose weight. He was quick to blame the scooter instead.

Then came our most egregious violation of Taiwanese laws. We quietly sneaked past the park entrance of Snow Mountain to get onto the trail. It felt like we were KJB spies infiltrating deep into enemy territory. We did have the required permits to climb Snow Mountain but our “crime” was that we never registered our names at the local police station. All Snow Mountain climbers are supposed to register their names at the local police station. Our Plan B there was simple. In case we got caught, Jinhwa would play the innocent non-English speaking travel group while begging and pleading for forgiveness. If they still wanted to capture and torture someone, well, Hannes was always expendable.

Dominic and Hannes looking all awake at 2am!

Quietly passing through the Snow Mountain entrance

The first part of the trail reminded me of the climb to the summit of Mount Kinbalu in Kota Kinabalu. The trail went up from about 2000m in elevation to 3000m. There were plenty of stairs but it wasn’t any more difficult than climbing Rooster Hill in Sai Kung 2-3 times.

First part of the trail

The girls thought I looked “cute” in my yellow bandana and baggy pants

We reached a hut named “Hut 369” at about 7am in the morning. it took us roughly 4 hours to get there from the start of the trail. You might ask why the nondescript and uncreative name. It reminded me of the names of some of the buildings in Hong Kong like “100 QRC” or “8 QRC”. Eventually, we figured out that it was called “Hut 369” because it is at an altitude of 3690m! I was thinking that their marketing guys should have come up with something more jazzy, something like “Sunrise Hut”.

Hut 369

Very basic looking inside

The trail from this hut to the summit was STUNNING. It got all of us high on endorphins. We were all in the zone, smiling and connecting with nature. The trail initially went through a Black Forest (yes, I was thinking of the cake as well) but I mean a tall wooded mountain range. Then the landscape blended into a rocky terrain filled with beautiful Rhododendron flowers. This is where I started to feel the altitude. We were at about 3500m in elevation. Then came a very slippery slope filled with rocks and boulders of all shapes and sizes. After climbing that slope using all four limbs, we got our first view of the summit. It was a sight that will forever be etched in our memories. At that point, I felt like nothing else mattered. It was just me, the mountains and nature.

Walking through a Black Forest (yes, think of the cake)

A tired looking Hannes, walking slowly like he does on my Plover Cove

The Rhododendron flowers (yes, I used spell check)

Soaking in nature – the first views of the summit

And, we were reached the summit after about 7 hours, at 9.30am

The gentlemen minus Martijn who was busy taking photos elsewhere!

We had several interesting conversations on the summit. Well, first of all, everyone was in full of admiration for my outfit. Hannes thought that my 70s style Nike track pants were a must have for him in his wardrobe as well. Dominic was enamored by my belt and wished he had worn a belt too. The girls loved my bandana and my cool and groovy look. Basically, I was the harbinger of fashionable mountain wear.

This is the future of mountain outfits

Then we had an intense debate over a simple question. Why does it get cold as we climb up although we are getting closer to the sun? Hannes, Dominic and Martijn gave me so called “knowledgeable” answers to this, although it was evident to me that all they were trying to do was to confuse me. As I read somewhere, “if you can’t convince them, confuse them”. They were practicing that to perfection.

We spent about 30 minutes on the summit and decided to hike along a ridge called “The Holy Grail”. This ridge connected to the summit of Snow Mountain to the neighboring summit of another mountain which was at an altitude of around 3800m. Hiking in that altitude has a tiring effect on the body, every kilometer becomes an accomplishment. Our original plan was to get to the top of North Peak which was only 6km away from the summit of Snow Mountain but getting up at 2am and hiking for 7 hours had its toll on everyone – well, almost everyone. Romain, Jinhwa and I decided to hike a bit further towards North Peak while Dominic, Martijn, Olivia and Hannes decided to descend all the way back to the start.

The three of us went up a mountain called Karantakun Shan or “Krrrrrr Shan” as Dominic calls it (his Mandarin needs improvement) on the way to North Peak. Then the clouds started to set in. It started drizzling.

Clouds began to sink in

We covered all of 2km in 45 minutes and then made an executive decision to turn back. Romain and I were sleep deprived and tired from the 160km bike ride the previous day. We decided that continuing to hike along those precipitous ridges in that altitude without proper focus could have been disastrous, especially with the threat of uncertain weather. So, we took our group picture at some point on the way to North Peak and turned around.

Somewhere along the way to North Peak

The brave ones who attempted North Peak

Then came a fast downhill descent, all the way from 3800m in elevation back to the entrance of the Snow Mountain trail. Romain and Jinhwa were running down like there was no tomorrow whereas I had trouble focusing due to sleep deprivation. We eventually caught upto Dominic, Hannes, Olivia and Martijn who were walking down. Upon returning to the start of the trail, Romain and I “scootered” everyone back to the hotel on two trips. By the time we were done with the day’s festivities, we were all exhausted. And soon after that, it started to rain. The timing was perfect. Well, for everyone except Martijn who decided to skip the scooter ride and run from the start of the Snow Mountain trail all the way back to the hotel in the rain. He was somehow full of energy at the finish.

10th June 2012

Hey Doc, what’s shakin’?
There’s nothing more earth-shaking than… well, earth shaking! We were awoken by the loud noise of the rattling of windows at 5am in the morning. I turned around to look at Dominic and Hannes to ensure that they weren’t upto any mischief. Dominic seemed equally startled.

“What the heck is that noise?” I asked him. “Earthquake”, came his shocking answer. It was the first ever earthquake I had experienced! At breakfast in the morning, we read on the news that it was about 6.5 on the Richter scale.

After breakfast, we met Rihang Su, our friend/guide who drove 7 hours from his house in Taroko to pick us up from Wuling Farm. He came with 4 mountain bikes in his van. The plan was simple – on the way from Wuling farm (2000m) to Taroko (sea-level), there is a place called Daiyuling (2800m). Dominic, Jinhwa, Hannes and Martijn were to ride the mountain bikes all the way down from Daiyuling to Taroko. Olivia, who gave the bike riding a miss, was going to be part of the “camera crew”. Romain and I were going to follow the bikers on our scooters! The plan seemed perfect but there was a catch. It was raining nonstop. There was constant rain and the skies showed no signs of clearing up.

Rihang and I

Rihang’s van. Three mountain bikes mounted in the rear and one inside

By the time Romain and I reached Dayuling on our scooters, we were totally wet. The van group seemed a little demoralized except for Dominic. The sight of the mountain bike somehow juiced him up and he seemed both enthusiastic and determined to ride down to Taroko, despite the nonstop rain. They say that enthusiasm is contagious and this occasion was a perfect example of that. Upon seeing Dominic’s excitement and determination to ride the bike down to Taroko, Hannes, Jinhwa and Martijn followed suit. Romain and I couldn’t care less about the rain and decided to ride our bikes all the way upto Hehuan (3200m) in the rain before riding back down on our scooters to catch up with the cyclists.

A sad looking Jinhwa (blame the rain), a determined Dom and a don’t-care Romain

Our loyal steeds – rain or sunshine, she can be ridden!

On top of Hehuan. We were COLD and WET! But, enjoying every moment!

Riding a mountain bike all the way down to sea-level from a height of 2800m will drive even the world’s most depressed person ecstatic. The exhilaration is unbeatable. Add some rain and slippery roads that meander all the way down through dense green forests and the release of endorphins is 100% GUARANTEED.

Despite wearing girly gel shorts, Hannes initially seemed to be struggling on his bike at the back whereas Dominic was speeding down as though he was Lance Armstrong. In fact, judging by his speed and his Formula One like turns, one can argue that he was also likely to be doping “allegedly” like Lance Armstrong! Jinhwa and Martijn seemed to be in total control of their bikes, well, except for one section through a dark tunnel where Jinhwa abruptly stopped in the middle of the tunnel as it was too dark for her see anything! Luckily, the “camera crew” (Rihang and Olivia) were just behind her and offered her support.

Romain had the closest call for the day. While he was waiting on the side of the road for me to catch up, a huge boulder rolled down from an adjacent steep slope and fell about 20 meters in front of him and disintegrated into several pieces. Had he been 20 meters ahead, it would have meant instant death.

Jinhwa in total control of her bike

Dominic posing instead of speeding for a change

This section was blocked for 20 minutes because of falling boulders

Hannes, riding down like a pro (wearing girly gel shorts)

Martijn, Hannes, Jinhwa and our “Support Crew”

Descending into Taroko was a truly spectacular moment. Despite having already been there two times in the past, I was still captivated by the gorgeous beauty of the gorge. The different shades of the color of water, the greenery of the trees, the mountain ranges in the backdrop, the meandering roads in the foreground – it was a simply spectacular sight.

The gorgeous Taroko Gorge

Dominic posing in front of the gorge

Martijn soaking in nature

Jinhwa and Hannes riding along the gorge

The Taroko area is full of beautiful trails. Near the entrance of park and just about 15 minutes from Rihang’s house is a trail called Shakadang Trail. We decided to run that trail before reaching at Rihang’s house.

Posing at the end of Shakadang Trail

Rihang’s house – it felt like it was situated in the middle of a jungle

Relaxing and getting into dry clothes after a day full of biking and trail running

We were all quite hungry after a day filled with physical activities. Rihang knew the best place for us to regain all the energy we had lost. We went to Hualien city to a Japanese hotpot restaurant (Shabu Shabu) and ate like pigs. We were also dressed like pigs. Our shoes and clothes were wet. So, five of us ended up at the restaurant wearing bathroom slippers. The remaining two packed in two pairs of shoes and were slightly better dressed.

The Shabu Shabbu place in Hualien

Eating like pigs and dressed like pigs – posing in the restaurant wearing bathroom slippers

After gorging of food for well over two hours, we headed back to Rihang’s home. I wasted no time in going to bed. I could hear the sound of frogs mating and insects singing as I closed my eyes. But, nothing could have kept me awake that night!

11th June 2012

Waking up to a half marathon
Romain is full of energy. Too much energy. He wanted a greater challenge on the last day of our Taiwan trip and suggested that we run all the way from Rihang’s house to Tiansiang (25km from his house). Being equally insane, I accepted the challenge and the two of us got up at 4.45am in the morning and started running by 5.15am. In the beginning I felt groggy and questioned the sanity behind running a half marathon at 5am in the morning. But, the smell of fresh air in the gorge refreshed my senses like nothing else could. I soon started relishing every moment of the run. We ran through the dark tunnels along the meandering roads all the way to Tiansiang. It took us roughly 2.5 hours to complete the run.

Our butt prints in Tiansiang after completing 25km of running

Completing a half marathon on the final day of our Taiwan adventure trip

The final agenda on this adventure trip was a hike along the “Cliff Trail”, which is a trail that runs at about 800m in elevation above the gorge. A slip of the foot will result in a 800m drop into oblivion.

The Cliff Trail – A drop from here will result in a journey to heaven

Around 4km into the Cliff Trail

A group picture at the end of the Cliff Trail hike

Before returning to Rihang’s home to repack, he drove us to the Pacific Ocean where Jinhwa went for a swim. She didn’t quite know that the ocean drops to a depth of 100m quickly and the currents are strong enough to carry someone deep into the ocean in a relatively short span of time.

The group by the Pacific Ocean

Jinhwa going for a swim in the Pacific Ocean

It was time to then make the journey back to Hong Kong. Romain and I rode our scooters back to Hualien city and returned them to the bike shop. The kid there said “ok” and didn’t even bother checking to see if the scooters worked. It was the quickest ever return of scooters that I have ever witnessed.

We couldn’t get seats on the train to Taipei from Hualien. So, we ended up with standing seats but turned them into “sitting” seats by sitting on the floor of the train.

Our “sitting” standing seats

We returned to the hustle and bustle of Hong Kong in the late evening. I will never forgive the Taiwan Customs guys for seizing my bottle of fresh chili that I bought in Hualien!

A truly kick ass adventure trip that involved 400km of motorbiking, 35 kilometers of trail running, 20 kilometers of climbing and an immeasurable amount of fun and excitement. Taiwan is an amazing place for a great escape into the wilderness. I am already looking forward to returning to compete in the Taroko marathon.